9-3 SS Air intake testing

Did some comparisons last time the car was on the dyno in october just to see how much restriction the stock airbox/filter was at “big” power. Here are the results. Seems ok to leave the airbox on at this point. The MAF likes the smoothing of the stock filter.

Setup:
Nordic E85 tune, 3″ Nocat Downpipe, 2.5″ Catback, Huge intercooler, 630cc and 18t.

Pressure after the MAF in the inlet tube to compressor. Shown as Channel: Air1 P Unit: InH20. Boost Is Man P in PsiG. (23in/h20 is about .83psi)

Runs 6,5 Airbox Open No filter Just the maf. But using stock airbox lid so there is no MAF scaling influencing things.
Runs 1-4 Stock Airbox and filter

9-3 SS Downpipe 2.0L turbo

I know its not super cool but going to share it anyway.. After not liking the available options for the downpipes (All copies of the BSR) including the funny double ring sealing it was time to make a custom one the right way.

Backside has a nice taper to match up to the inside of 3in tube. Reducing turbulence and helping make a bit more power. Even if it is negligible at least I know it is done right. ;)
Front is cleaned up to match the turbine shape and seal without the silly double spacer ring.

As you guessed the rest is coming..

Next up for machine shop is a V6 version :)

Customer Viggen (Dark)

Finishing up a Gt30 Viggen Build. An even cleaner version of My Viggen! Mostly hard-lines. The Turbo is p/c to match the valvecover. Hot stuff is ceramic. Even made a hardline drain tube. I kept baking the one on my Vig.

Custom 3″ Exhaust for the Viggen

Looking to see if there was any interest in the custom 3″ we made for the viggen. Sounds great. It has a unique quick change rear muffler that swaps to a straight pipe in under a minute. This way you can throw on the straight pipe and go cause some trouble without having to deal with the noise on a daily basis. :) Some more pics in the Gallery

Drag car plans for 2010 season

With the great success in our first season with the thrown together half finished car I decided we needed a firm plan for next year.

Initially for the 2010 season I would like to see how far we can go with the same gt3071 turbo both for the challenge and budget constraints but there are some important safety upgrades that are needed before we even make another full pass with the current setup. Once the safety is addressed then we can sort out the powertrain issues.

Safety is the biggest changes we are tackling. Rules dictate we need a roll bar to go faster than 11.5 check. ;) So might as well add a few more bars to stiffen the shell while we are in there. At least a 6pnt cage most likely more. A true race seat is needed to accommodate the harness requirement and the cage gives us a proper place to secure the shoulder belts. With the repeated clutch failures we will add a suitably overkill scatter shield around the flywheel. Probably will make a few copies for the other racers out there. Safety will use most of the budget if not all of it. :(

The dual injector manifold we made a while back will go on with a second set of 630s at the head to shore up the high mounted 1000s. This will give us enough fuel to finish the tuning. I previously stopped short of MBT due to maxing the 1000cc injectors by 5k not the best situation to be in, even if it is a little less scary on E85. The new high mount injectors should help with ve by allowing more time for the ethanol to mix with the air on the way to the chamber. With the compressor this far out of it’s happy place there is quite a bit of inlet temp so anything should help. Current ly we run an off-the-self intercooler, same part we use on the customer cars, guess they are pretty good! I have plans for a trick intercooler setup that will either work or be a waste, have not seen one before of this design anywhere. May try a modified cylinder head if it needs to come off. As it is we are running a stock head with only mods springs and cam clearance! We really don’t need any more power right now so thats about it. I do have a cheapie external wastegate we may play with but don’t expect it to help much.

The clutch was our biggest failure item of the season so eliminating that will be a great releif. This is the main part that will requre money since we have “outgrown” the std clutches we use for customer cars. Most likely will be a very overkill multi-plate setup on a custom flywheel. I hope also to run an air clutch actuator setup. I originally played with one in my -78 99 as a result of a knee injury around 15 years ago. It used a basic air cylinder actuating the pedal with a simple flow control valve that allowed full down speed while offering manual adjustment of return speed. with the Nira it should allow us to map a Pwm output to adjust the return speed by gear. The clutch is still operated by the driver just differently. As far as inertia goes there are a few different thoughts on the flywheels effect on launching a drag car. I am more concerned with the shifting so it will probably be light with the friction tough enough to allow a little slip on launch. One problem with multi-plate clutches is the extra load on the syncros trying to slow the extra disks weight on shifting. Will tackle that when we get there. Hoping we get it close by the second time. Development sure costs money and it is certainly lots easier to just copy/paste but then thats no fun now is it. ;)

Overall it should be a fun year with plenty of learning opportunities and I hope to have some good competition. Hint Hint! It will surely take going past this turbo to play with the hondaz. Hopefully by then we can secure some sponsors. ;)

No Steven it won’t get a big ricer tach that reads to our limiter..

© Nick T No reproduction permitted.

Clutches

So we have some new clutch disks finally for my cars. In case you missed it the drag car has been hungry and the spec are just not what I want to put back in my street car.

These new disks seem to be quite a bit more durable with better drivability as a bonus. Without getting into everything lets just make a couple points. First this is what I will put in my car. Secondly I am not keen on selling what I am not happy to run in my personal cars. We were even able to lower the price! The side effect to this is that the early demand has been greater than expected. We are working with suppliers to solve this temporary issue.

Shown here from left; New Race Clutch Solid Hub, New Sprung Hub “stg3″ and the spec for comparison.

In the same time we also found that the s&@^ flywheels were not clearing the front cover on most cars. Not a major issue, ) I never noticed it on my Viggen.) Still UNACCEPTABLE in my book! They were not keen to solve the problem so we are working to find another manufacturer or machine them in house. So for the time being we are not offering the Alu flywheels for sale.

T7 Turbo Bypass Valve Mods

This is the second installment of the Bypass Valve posts. Sometimes with a tuned vahicle we want to eliminate some of the compromises the facory made. In this case it was noise related to the turbo bypass valve (BPV) “hooting” during light acceleration when the manifold vacuum is too low to keep the valve in steady state causing it to osscilate. The factory got around it by fitting an electronic valve that connects the BPV to either before or after the throttle. Tuned we want to simplify this. For years we have been doing this to the cars here and figured it time to share with a nice HowTo..
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Basically we want to cap the throttle port and fit a new hose (shown Green) directly from the bypass valve to the manifold. Deleting the red and orange hoses and the valve. Leave the valve electrically plugged in. Should be a 10min job only a 4mm or 3/16″ vacuum cap and a few feet of 4mm hose.

Around the shop on a Freight Day

So with the downturn this last oceanfreight shipment from Sweden had a fair bit of parts in it. Normally we get about half of what we order! This is the biggest problem. Does us no good to place orders if the suppliers can’t supply. The other complication is that with the weaker dollar we simply cannot afford to airfreight the parts. They have to come cheap ocean freight which takes 3 or so weeks. There are minimums on the ocean so we have to coordinate different suppliers to be ready at the same time too. You can see how this can get very complicated quick. At this point we certainly have built up inventory to be able to supply parts quickly to our customers. First indication that its enough is using the forklift to unload the delivery truck. That night we had to get a second UPS truck for pickup. There are about 50 exhaust kits in stock. So there is a pretty good chance we have that kit. So thanks to all you other “tuners” out there cutting back or who can only stock a few in their home garage. It finally allowed us to get close to our stocking targets to better supply the customers with great parts at a good value. There are a few of the 9 employees in the pics too. Daily service and manufacturing still has to go on. With all the bad saab news out there you can rest assured we have invested in our future and learned some lessons since 1990 when we moved into this shop. Lots of companies have come and gone and at Taliaferros we hope to be able to service your saabs as long as you can stand the quirky things. In the coming weeks I plan to share more of the daily workings here to hopefully let you see what sets us apart from the others.

The rest of the photos can be found here: Shop Gallery

Sonett Detail

So when the ocean freight arrived at the shop even with 7K sq the pallets overflowed the parts area and there was no longer any room inside for this little guy so he came to my garage. The wheels were is poor shape and nobody around here wanted to spend the time to polish the painted parts. So a few fingertips later they look nice without being overdone. The paint is still aged but this is a 35yo car! Hopefully we can find a good new home for this one. We still have the 2-strokes and I have my -72 95 Wagon that needs lots more love than this.

Meguars cleaner wax and a few coats of plain wax brought back the shine. In the first 5 min i was already remembering the difficulty of getting all the corners from years past. Being the kid it was my job.. anybody else out there remember painfully cleaning the “soccer ball” wheels?

The rest of the photos can be found here: Sonett Gallery

Saab Rod Coat Hook

Now that its getting colder it was time for a Saab related coat hook for my office. The shortened rod out of my viggen worked perfect. Clear coated it so no rust. I hate the pointy ones that dig into my motorcycle leathers so this should eliminate that. Only cost me a new one for the Viggen.. ;)

Door handle gets a few people too. Used B235 Piston ;)

Twitter

Decided twitter was a nice way to keep everyone updated. Have race news, new developments and other shop news. user is genuinesaab

Turbo Bypass Valves

Seems there is lots of bad info out there on the internet related to how much or what way, lets straighten that out. In Saab terms.. In the end this is not a VW!

From my Viggen you can see that it looks as if there is not one there! It is tucked away down by the AC. In the charge pipe down to the intercooler. This gives a short route back to the intake pipe post MAF.. Being a t7 car we must keep all the measured air inside.

Now some say that you have to run a super hard spring to get the most power out of it. NOT THE CASE. The function of the spring is to overcome the stiction of the piston and its seals thats all. There is boost from the manifold “vac” line on the top of the piston closing it. If the spring is too hard then you can see it will take more engine vac to open it, not a nice thing to the compressor. We want the fastest response open. This can be accomplished by running the softest spring in the valve. That way it is fully open sooner.

VIggen 440tq and 450hp on the wheels Green spring!
Drag car 2x -001 Dump Valves.Yellow spring. (They are not the dual piston -004 street dump valves so we want them to stay closed more based on idle Vacuum. . It makes around 540hp to the wheels.

The second part of this is how T7 manages the valves. We will deal with this in another post. It is a simple change.

Tulsa Aftermath…

So we had some great luck on friday then after trailering the car all the way to tulsa for the last close IFO race this year the car laid down.. We fought fuel and clutch issues all day. Cleaned the fuel filter and overfilled the tank and that helped the power but the clutch was not ok with it. There was a bunch of carnage once we got towed off. And the ironic part is that we still got in the money! Covered fuel costs but certainly not the broken stuff. At this point we do not have a better clutch option from spec and are working towards developing some with a more advanced oem level manufacturer.
Carnage pics here: ClutchBoom

The rest of the photos can be found here: TulsaGallery

Video of the first pass a slow 11.8 Youtube Video Link Nice to be able to see the gauges. The car was 2 degrees toe in before! We set it straight up for now.

11.33!!!!! 2.0L

Ran 11.33 this evening. In case you were wondering thats another US Saab 1/4 mile record! Just shakedown for Sunday in Tulsa. Haven’t even booted the laptop since getting it ready for kc, no engine mods just chassis tweaks! On a tiny budget. Sure does work for a little gt3071.64 Goes for an alignment tomorrow finally, dad and I eyeballed it to this point on the dyno ;) You can see in the previous videos that the wheel was 1/4 turn off center.

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More Drag car Chassis Mods

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Anybody want to buy some 300 mile control arms? :(
Needless to say after loctite and finding the jamnuts loose after every outing the problem had to be investigated. We also found the outer joint to be binding due to wrong angles from the original design. :( They sure looked pretty.

Anyway back in their place is a set of stock arms with Spherical inner bushings, race outers and upgraded bolts. Nicely the super stiff steering is gone. :)
While we were there we also upgraded the front shocks and springs to something a little better than the 120k originals. Going my coilovers and a spring rate that we tried on the viggen back in -06. Combined with the stiff rear springs the car has a nicely balanced feel and is almost fun to drive on the street with the 205 p6s! There is no front sway bar and a 1″ rear is used. Plan is to make a new tubular rear one when they have some free time in the welding dept, like the prototype one I ran back in -99 and never decided to produce. Gallery Link

130mph Run.. :) First In America!

First 130mph Saab 1/4mile pass in America! Add that to the first in the 11s and our small turbo 2.0 limited budget old troll seems to work. Knowing there is some left on the table in the et from the mph, I plan to keep this turbo and target the 10s Realistically just into the high tens but still.

Drag2.0 Incar Video

An 11.5s run around 126-130mph 8400rpm

Drag 2.0 Ready Again

Should have some other updates if there is time. The Gold Viggen wheels sure look better on this car than the joke on my Red Vig. ;) They are fitted with 205 P6s So that should make low drag and still stick enough to keep it straight.

No power changes have been made so we hope to stay in that 11.4 range as before. We did sort out a fuel pickup issue so hopefully we can run less than a full tank of fuel.
A new special clutch has been fitted to try. ;) Nothing crazy just a bit of a lateral move from the Spec.

Bad news is it sure looks like practice tonight will be rained out.

See us at KCIR Import faceoff Sunday 6th.

Vig 1/4 mile results.

Well it was certainly faster we got 4 runs, 2 shakedown, one better and a final expensive pass.

12.43@114 On the gt2871.64 thats pretty good but it still was not a clean pass! The 60ft of 1.80 with a best of 1.78 were nice. This was still on my street ecu with conservative 1st and 2nd limiters. I had an ecu to try tuned like we run in the drag car with much more in second but that box was untried. I better explain that part. :(

The problem came on the 4th pass going from 3rd to 4th at about 100-110mph indicated ;) 2nd was selected. The factory rear mount broke. Yep a mechanical overrev, aka money $hift. No compression, Hoped timing slipped, no luck there. Pulled 1-3 and they were all good, 4 not so much. So that was the end. Pics are in the gallery. One #4 inlet valve failed and resides in 2 AND 3 now.

Now for the rebuild I have some options. This motor was just a drop in pistons at 6k miles and Enem cams. Rest was bolt on. I really like the power curve of the shorter stroke 2.0 but then it is “not a Viggen” or something like that. Most likely it will get a 2.3 same as before with Gt30 turned down a bit. ~425hp or so

At least the chassis mods worked well. These are some great 60ft times and with a little more driving he could have made a pass with perfect shifts. I was a little worried about the front springs being too stiff. I didn’t even soften the rebound on the fronts from full hard! There was no wheel hop at all. No wheel spin at all either. We could have taken lots more torque in second. We were still palying with shift points short shifting third and second just a little. Going through the lights in 4th. With the Gt30 and a bit more power we could have made a nicer showing but this will do for now.

This weekend will be taking the drag car to the Import Faceoff in KC,MO so will report that when we get back.

Timeslips and Carnage in the Gallery

Brakes and a Realization

Wanting to make one more go at the drag strip with my viggen this time with a bit more traction and less power will it work? Read on for the prologue.

After scrounging the turbo off to the racecar and running the old gt2871.64, but fixing some other deficiencies it might work. This is the turbo that hits peak 500rpm later and about 50hp and 50 tq lower on the wheels. I have made quite a few tweaks to the throttle.by.wire and other t7 mappings. The shifter is now the new short throw along with a prototype rear motor mount to get through the gears quicker. Harder race outer tca bushings to keep away nasty windup/hop. Nobody wants to see saab gearbox parts on the ground (again :( ) other changes to the chassis include swapping the 1 rear bar for a custom bassboat metallic red 22mm that better matches the hard springs. Not much help here. The front strut mounts are the prototype hardened ones we did. They should help with wheel hop.

Along these lines and drastically needing more traction came the slicks from the racecar. This parts swapping works nice in the end I suppose. Throw in the quick change v-band muffler / straight pipe swap I had the idea for when we did the 3 full system. Leaving only a smallish center resonator it sounds like a track car. Everyday with the quiet muffler on it still sounds mean but the neighbors wave back. ;)

So hopefully all these little things add up to bettering the previous best of 13.00 @ 110/118 no longer hopefully on the 7200 limiter in third through the lights or shift just into 4th with the same times. That was on the 225 17 heavy bbs ch! Should be in 4th nice with the little shorter slicks they are 8.5 x 24.5.

To make the 15 slicks work meant swapping the wp 336mm to stock base 9-3 setup. This was not such a fun prospect with this much power and the way I have learned to expect this car to stop. In the front are my slotted brembos, some spraypainted used calipers and hawk hps pads. They are coping well. I do have a set of used hawk black track pads for the rear 300mm upgrade kit that I threw in. They are certainly noisy and very dirty.

Just for fun and to help the brakes work I swapped to one of my favorite wheel sets that are a bit shorter. They are the aero Klingons with some takeoff stock 215 17 p6000 that are pretty hard compared even to the used up 225 kumho mx 18s.

After getting through a this it was apparent that with the new near zero price of hp these days that lots of saabs out there are running this sort of power on the streets with this little control! Its pretty crazy since this is a pretty overwhelmed chassis with even my baby 1400 airmass junk gas tune in the car! Now ever since I had to mill the closest hawk hps pads to fit those wp so that I could use a cleaner but still capable pad when the originals wore out, I decided to work on a better solution and even though those 6-piston caliper sure look cool they are not going back on the car. Instead I want a modular system that will easily adapt to perform in all situations taking less than a whole afternoon.

Well off to tie it on the dyno and make sure it is happy back on E85 and turned up to where it was before. Hopefully will find out tonight if it all works.

UPDATE: the Dyno says the power is there. ~439tq @ 4500 and 447hp at ~6200 Limiter @ 7300

Your feedback needed!

I was wondering if there was interest in a story about building a 11second drag race saab. If this sounds interesting let me know.

the grass is always greener.. 9-3 SS Shifter improvements!

Kit After getting used to the improved shifter in my Viggen, going back to the short throw cable in my SS 6speed there was one problem. The shifter feels too spongy. The fix was replacing the soft rubber mounts that hold the base to the car body. We ran some in the cnc out of aluminum that certainly crisp up the shifter. The best part is a simple install with basic tools! You can lift up the shift boot in your car to see for yourself. There is quite a bit of deflection with the stock setup. Sure its nice for the caddy but this is a Sports Sedan.. Lets make it that way.
Now just to find the time to install the Quaife in this and see what else can be done inside to help the shifting.

New Short Shifter Released

So after lots and lots of testing these shifters, (Anyone that has swapped them a few times in a NG900/9-3 will understand that you only want to do it once!) anyway back on track. It Is finally ready for the customers. The hardest part was doing it the right way.The hard way involved custom metric bearings not Inch bearings on the metric shaft.

After previosly having another short shifter in there and repairing it many times along with never being able to adjust it perfectly I gave up and went back to a 120K worn out factory one from a scrap car and it was surprising quite a bit better shifting. At this point I decide there had to be a better way and worked from that. The last straw was when we broke the shifter in the drag car in the first round eliminations and it was an easy win but we got knocked out. :( Anyway fastforward a bunch of work) For the first few times I got in the viggen I had a hard time believing it was the same car. it just shifts. Solidy and precisely with no drag. The way it should have been.

Rear Engine Mount

Prototype Rear Mount

Prototype Rear Mount

Tested a new prototype rear engine mount in the drag car this last weekend. A 120 mile round trip in 90 degree weather down into the Ozark mountains. The improvement is amazing, with the most apparent change when in the twisty roads when on and off the throttle. Coupled with the new short shifter the experience is unlike any other Ng900/9-3 I have driven. The plan is to make it to a production part soon for extended testing. Then if it makes it that far to have production mid summer. Either way you can believe that it will be tested to the limit in the drag car.